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[Destination] A kayak-to-ski mission into the guts of Norway’s fjords

[Destination] A kayak-to-ski mission into the guts of Norway’s fjords

Written by Xavier— Posted in mai 16, 2023

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Featured Picture: Andy Cochrane | Skier: Matt Chorney | Location: Reine, Lofoten

It’d be a stretch to name me religious, until the chapel in query is planet Earth. I worship no almighty deity on any given Sunday, nicely, apart from an correct avalanche forecast. I’ve by no means been baptized, nicely, until a shot-ski or tailgate beer counts. I pray typically, however just for self-absorbed outcomes like recent tracks and double burrito lunches. If this makes me a blasphemous heathen, so be it.

As an alternative of money, I pay tithes in frozen fingers and sleepless nights in nylon bivvys. I see proselytizing as immoral, apart from changing knuckle-draggers to two-plankers. Once I sin–like lacking a powder day–I repent by selecting up extra hitchhikers. I imagine that salvation, if there may be such a factor, is extra possible present in a Snickers bar than a preacher’s sermon. God should perceive. 

These aren’t ephemeral ideas, both. I’ve seen them, felt them, lived them, and realized them from a spot that doesn’t take care of bullshit. The mountains are sincere. There’s no room for ego, greenback payments or money owed owed. If you’re within the trenches in opposition to snow demigods, there isn’t a debate about destiny versus free will. You simply do the rattling factor.

Caught In A Storm

Hunkered in our dome tent, listening to the winds whip outdoors, we made half-jokes in regards to the kayaks being blown away. The tent was staked like concrete with paddles and poles, however the kayaks have been simply burrowed within the snow, a dozen or so toes from shore. We hoped the gear nonetheless contained in the hatches was sufficient weight to maintain them grounded. As a lot as I really like a plot twist, I wasn’t in love with the concept of being stranded on this uninhabited seaside in northern Norway. 

In the mean time it didn’t really feel like a predicament, principally as a result of we had little say within the matter. We’d swiftly completed cooking dinner because the storm rolled in, diving into the tent with our half-hydrated meals earlier than a wall of rain and snow encroached our campsite. Sitting in my sleeping bag nonetheless carrying my ski shells, I had no plans to depart the tent in these winds–not even to pee.

On simply our first evening of this novel kayak-to-ski mission and the plan was eroding, rapidly. After strapping skis to our fiberglass ocean-faring boats and paddling throughout miles of uncovered water, our goal was to knock off just a few traces on the northwestern tip of Lofoten–a road-less space that’s unattainable to entry with no boat. Nevertheless, the excessive seas had pressured us into a brand new space, a protected bay we knew little about. No man’s land, so to talk. 

Locals informed us this sort of fickle climate was commonplace, particularly within the spring. Temps hover round freezing, making precipitation a mixture of rain, sleet and snow at any given hour. Usually depressing circumstances for each boating and snowboarding, until you get fortunate. We deliberate for the worst, packing spare layers, additional meals and double the whiskey, nevertheless it’s one factor to plan for it and one other to expertise it in actual life.

Forgiveness For Our Sins

Like most sinners, we knew what we had executed fallacious, however we refused to confess it. There wasn’t a close-by priest to repent to, anyway. Dedicated to the concept and collectively cussed sufficient to imagine it will work out, we sat within the tent, consuming Thai Curry in silence.

Two levels north of the Arctic Circle and miles from the closest city, ready was the one choice. I’m typically a cup-half-full kind of man, however my overly optimistic perspective typically will get me into bother. This was a superb instance.

I began digging by maps to see if there was respectable ski terrain close by, however Wyatt was targeted on extra urgent questions, “Ever pooped in a vestibule?” he requested, stone-faced. I laughed, appreciating his comedic reduction, however after just a few seconds, I noticed he was critical. And, no, I hadn’t.

Within the Arctic, with no timber to guard you from the wind and no people (apart from us) silly sufficient to camp this time of 12 months, we needed to resolve our personal issues. Even the fundamental, bodily ones. That’s after I began to wish for higher climate, so we may ski.

Fortune Favors The Daring

Even a matrix of tie-downs received’t totally cease a tent from whipping within the wind. At daybreak, the storm lastly broke, giving us a pair hours of sleep. Once we woke, groggy and matted, we realized how nonetheless it was outdoors the tent. Not even the sound of a crashing wave. True serenity in a faraway place.  

We crawled out of our baggage and thru the entrance tent door, prepared for a cup of on the spot espresso. We knew a whole lot of the terrain close to camp can be wind scoured and loaded, however we hoped just a few good turns have been nonetheless on the market, if we searched in the correct locations. Worst case, we’d get some train and have a narrative to inform. Following a scorching breakfast, we began skinning up the valley in the direction of a big col that provided quite a lot of slopes and features. 

Native ski guides hardly ever go this far down the Lofoten archipelago, sticking to extra accessible zones. That was the draw for this journey–utilizing kayaks to determine new routes–nevertheless it additionally was the massive danger. We didn’t have beta on the realm, in guidebooks or in any other case. Simply our greatest judgment, Gaia Maps and belief in one another. It was a real journey.

Higher Fortunate Than Good

Whether or not it was the percentages lastly breaking in our favor or some Norwegian God taking mercy on us, I don’t know. Both manner, we made regular work of the ascent, stopping periodically to dig pits to evaluate the steadiness. Circumstances have been higher than we anticipated– wind affected on ridges, however in any other case right-side-up with no indicators of cracking or connectivity within the new layer. 

Coincidentally, it was Sunday, and we have been ski touring in essentially the most basic cathedral. We didn’t want stained glass home windows and huge altars to know our path in life. The wind and snow saved us humble. This was our communion, shuffling legs and arms, shifting ourselves uphill. Quickly sufficient we’d be born once more, utilizing gravity with all of God’s glory.

In my head I listed the few commandments I may recall, totaling simply three. No stealing, no killing, and the sanctity of God’s holy day. If there’s a heaven, it’s in all probability an ideal slope with limitless refills. After just a few laps, we headed again to the boats, to start the journey house. Our ski-to-time ratio was, by all measures, horrible. Just a few dozen minutes of fine turns for days of journey, however that wasn’t the unique purpose. We wished to check ourselves by doing one thing completely new, and that was a transparent success. 

Learn how to Get There

The simplest method to get to Lofoten is to fly to Oslo, then take a smaller, home flight north. The 2 greatest airports are Harstad/Narvik (EVE) on the western finish of the archipelago, and Svolvær (SVJ) which is roughly within the center). Some choose to fly to Leknes (LKN) as nicely. From any of those additionally, you will need to lease a automotive, to get to numerous backcountry ski locations within the space.

PHOTO: Andy Cochrane

The place to Keep

There are many Airbnbs and motels in Lofoten, primarily clustered in small cities like Ballstad, Reine, Svolvær, Leknes and others. My favourite basecamp earlier than or after a giant ski journey in Lofoten is Hattvika Lodge, positioned in Ballstad. The proprietor, Kristian, is likely one of the most pleasant and useful folks you possibly can meet. He’s additionally an avid skier, and has pointed me to various hidden gems within the space.


A day in Oslo is a worthwhile stopover, with loads of sightseeing choices just like the Viking Ship Museum, Norse Folks museum, a bounty of scrumptious meals choices and a compulsory cease at a floating sauna to chill out after a giant ski journey.

Insider Suggestions From the Creator

Professional tip #1: Watch the climate–however by no means belief what the weatherman says. As a result of its proximity to the North Atlantic, Lofoten has fast-moving and fickle climate. Even on quick, half-day excursions, be ready for something. 

Professional tip #2: Watch out for sharks—on the mountain. As a result of decrease elevations, the depth of the snowpack adjustments dramatically from the highest of a run to the underside. 

Professional tip: #3: The perfect time to go to is early March by late April. Lofoten is fully inside the Arctic Circle, which means that in January and most of February, there may be little to no daylight in any respect. Temps close to the ocean keep pretty constant, usually mid 20s to mid 30s.

PHOTO: Andy Cochrane


Elevation: The best level in Lofoten is Himmeltindan, at 3,100 toes. It’s an incredible peak to ski, with a number of descent choices. Many peaks within the space have a prominence of two,500 toes (or extra) above sea degree.

Avg. annual snowfall: 180” (However like I mentioned, don’t belief the forecast.)

Vertical drop: On most years you possibly can ski all the best way all the way down to the ocean (or near it), which means the longest runs are typically 3,000 toes; extra usually, 2,000. On a superb day, we’d full a number of laps, usually snowboarding a brand new line every time.






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